Bluebells in the Bronze Age!

 These little blue gems which appear around April and May, carpeting woodland floors, have an amazing history in the UK, where it is though around 50% of the world’s bluebells grow.

The flowers tend to lie on one side of the stem and droop once they are open.  As the name describes they are bell shaped and range from blue to violet.  Occasional white flowers can be found and may be genetic mutations. Most striking is the fabulous scent that they produce which adds to the delight of wandering though bluebell carpets.

Bluebells are native to the UK, although there are some Spanish ones around and these have mixed with the native variety.  The Spanish ones can be white or pink, but the most obvious difference is that they have very little or no scent.

Arran is steeped in history from the Bronze Age and it is likely that glue made from bluebells was used to attach feather to hunting arrows.  In more recent times Bluebell glue was also used to bind books.

Bluebell roots were also used to make starch to stiffen clothing, particularly collars and ruffs in the Victorian era.

Like many native wild flowers, bluebells are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act, and it is illegal to dig up the bulbs for sale or profit.  In all cases removing the plant, even for preservation reasons requires permission from the landowner (as most bluebells are found in woodlands there is always a 

landowner). 

Ancient historical carvings on Arran

Some of the rings

Arran is seeped in history and I've previously done a blog on the carvings at Kings Cave which proved popular so here's another site that is less well known.  Just outside of Brodick near the start of the string road I've seen the cups and rings marked on the map and heard the odd mention of them but despite driving past the area most days there is no sign post, unlike other historical sites on Arran.  

More of the rings and a cup

So it wasn't with much expectation that I set out on a rainy day to see if I could find them (yes it was a few weeks ago, as we've not had rain for ages, and then I got distracted and did a blog on the snow).

This figure appears to walk with sticks

I had a map location but nothing more, the track is off the String Road on the left, not long after passing the grave yard.  Twenty yards up the track there is space for 2 – 3 cars to park before a barrier and I continued on foot.  Eyes peeled for anything that may look interesting I continued along the churned up muddy track for about ¼ mile.  The track turns to a small path and within 30 yards the flat stone is reached.

Is this a person with a horse (similar to Kings Caves)?

No fear of missing it, its huge! About 25 foot by 12 foot or more, some of the carvings are several feet tall.  The rock slab is in two main parts both covered in carvings, too many to describe and show photographs of, so only a few to give a taste of the site are shown.

The cups - are these indentations where tools were sharpened?

Although it is difficult to imagine the carvings were done well before the forestry arrived and they actually stand on Stronach Ridge, with views that would have been across the Beinn Nuis and the Goatfell range.

There is something a little phallic about these!

There are several guesses as to the relevance of the carvings, from sun dials to maps and it is believed they originate in the Bronze Age (c 4000 years ago).

This bird like carving is on the side of the rock and previously was covered with vegetation

They are described as cups and rings, but some look like people, and some that have only recently started to be described in texts, are like birds.  I found one that looks like a foot long dragonfly – and I can’t find this described anywhere else, so maybe its recently been uncovered; it is clear that the ground has had some clearance work done.

My 'dragonfly' 

 There even seems to be some rune or Pictish like markings towards the left side of the main rock slab.

Are these Pictish markings?

The carvings were recorded in great detail by Coles in 1901 with descriptions, drawings and some photographic plates (no trees in these!) but there are areas which were still filled with peat and vegetation.  Some of this has now been removed revealing the birds and other carvings.  This description also notes two other carved rocks a short distance away but these are now well under forest plantation.

To me this looks like a row of people, including a horse.

This is a great place to go when its wet as the water highlights the marks (but still easily seen when dry), if visiting in summer take midge repellent, and stick to the path during the stalking season!

The main slab

I have doubts on these which have recently been uncovered - are they Iron Age graffiti? 

There are no preservation measures in place for the rocks, or definitive answers to what they are, so use your imagination and leave the site as you find it.

Kilwinning Abbey

Kilwinning Abbey Ruins

 Well last week I found myself having to kill a few hours while I waited for my car to be mended at the garage in Kilwinning, just across the water from our lovely Isle of Arran.  ‘Killing time’, now that phrase sort of highlighted how many towns around this part of Scotland start with ‘Kil’.  I was in Kilwinning, then there’s Kilmarnock, Kilbride, Kilbirnie, to name a few.  The name ‘Kil’ links back to the Celtic Church, so there was no surprise to find that Kilwinning has an old Abbey. The ‘winning’ part is believed to have been taken from the name of a preacher, Winin, from the 6^th century, who built a church here and was later canonised.

Stone arches are a major feature of the remains

Despite the dull, wet and grey weather, old buildings can be great subjects for photography and so I went off in search of some inspiration.

Decorative window arches

The Abbey has a fascinating history directly linked to the first war for Scottish Independence. Bernard Linton, the Abbot of Kilwinning is credited with writing the Declaration of Arbroath (the first statement of nationhood in history).  He died in 1331 and is buried in a vault under the ruins.

“For we fight, not for glory, nor for riches, nor for honour,

but only and alone for freedom, 

which no good man gives up but with his life"

Detail remains in the stonework

The vaults under the abbey ruins are no longer accessible due to the rebuilding and extension the current Parish Church.  Occasionally archaeological digs still take place.

The new tower - built 1814

The original Abbey had three steeples, two were destroyed during the Reformation and the third by lightening 200 years later.  However, a new tower, known as the Clock tower was built between 1814 – 1816 (at a cost of £1590).  This tower was refurbished by the District Council in 1995 and is now open to visitors at limited times during the summer.  It is even possible to climb the 143 steps to the roof of the tower for great views of Ayrshire (on a fine day).  Needless to say the tower was firmly shut during my visit!

Also of interest to historians (but not photographed) is the ‘Head lodge of Scotland’.  Built in 1140, around the same time as the Abbey, this Lodge was given the number ‘0’.  The Lodge is just round the corner from the Abbey on Main Street.

A more spooky image....

Kings Cave Isle of Arran

Kings cave is part of a group of caves that sit north of Drumadoon on the Isle of Arran.  The caves are formed from sandstone and are steeped in history. One of the most famous associations and the origin of the title Kings Cave comes from the belief that Robert the Bruce had  his spider encounter within the cave.  In the 17^th century the cave was associated with the mythical Irish hero Fionn and his warriors and some texts of this era refer to the cave as Fingal’s Cave. What is certain is that throughout time the cave has been used for shelter, worship and teaching and whereas modern day graffiti is done with a spray can, historical markings were made with the tools available at the time.

Carvings date back many centuries, possibly even to bronze age (Machrie Moor stones are about 1 mile away) and have been worn away or overlaid by both more recent carvings and mineral deposits. The caves are now an easy circular walk (from the kings cave carpark).

On entering the cave serpents can be found about 4 meters in just above head height on the left.  

Once these are found it is quite easy to pick out Ogham inscriptions slightly to the left of the serpents and a meter or so to the right – all at the same height.  Oghan inscriptions are a medieval type of alphabet or cypher, sometimes known as the ‘Celtic Tree Alphabet.

At the rear of the cave the tunnel forks.  The left hand side has many 19^th century engravings and a modern Christian symbol.  

The central buttress has a large Latin cross inscribed on it with other concentric lines near the base.  This has been reworked many times and has had various interpretations, from a two handed sword (associated with Bruce and Fionn),  Christian cross and  ‘tree of life’ a common motif in early Christian art.

Immediately to the right of the ‘cross’ is a human figure, with hands raised.  This hands raised position is believed to represent the prayer position.  Above the head is two curved lines (upside down w).  Various interpretations have been made of this, from it being hands joined, hair or a bow.

Moving down the right hand fork to where the tunnel narrows significantly (a torch will be needed), older animal carvings can be found.  The furthest is believed to be a horse  (head height) and below that (near the floor) a horse and rider.  

These appear quite different styles and are probably from very different dates but iron age is suggested.

Moving back towards the entrance but still within the right fork of the tunnel, at shoulder / head height, a very clear square carving can be seen that appears to represent a house. 

A little more to the right and two animals can be seen together.  These could be a deer and calf, or deer and hound.

To the right again, just above head height, moving out of the tunnel another animal, most likely a horse

and very faintly to the right of this and now being slowly covered with algae and mineral deposits is another human figure.

Another two meters right and at floor level a circles with a centre dot can be found.

Much nearer the entrance and on the overhanging ledge are two shields / masks / animal faces.  I prefer the suggestion of animal faces when a torch is played over the carvings.

There are more to be found than those listed here, although some do require a good dollop of imagination!